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Glamour and Innovation: Frankie Welch

Frankie Welch was one of the first designers to design “across the aisle,” creating gowns and scarves for first ladies Lady Bird Johnson, Pat Nixon, Betty Ford, and Rosalynn Carter. After earning a degree in clothing and design at Furman University in Greenville, South Carolina, Welch relocated with her husband to Virginia, where she taught “clothes coordination” classes at the University of Maryland. This exhibit was curated by Maegan Jenkins, the inaugural Digital Exhibits Intern and MA/MS dual degree student in Costume Studies and Library and Information Sciences at New York University.

Frankie Welch

(March 29, 1924 - September 2, 2021)

Frankie Welch was one of the first designers to design “across the aisle,” creating gowns and scarves for first ladies Lady Bird Johnson, Pat Nixon, Betty Ford, and Rosalynn Carter. After earning a degree in clothing and design at Furman University in Greenville, South Carolina, Welch moved with her husband to Virginia, where she taught “clothes coordination” classes at the University of Maryland. Welch’s work is frequently described as “Americana,” and she often used the proceeds of her designs to give back to communities. For example, in 1967, one dollar from each purchase of Welch’s first scarf design, the Cherokee Alphabet, was donated to a higher education fund for the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians. Shortly after this, Welch was approached by First Lady Lady Bird Johnson to create a scarf to promote her “Discover America” travel program. Welch continued to design scarves for Democratic and Republican National Conventions, and incorporated themes such as “Nixon Forward,” “Congressional,” and “Forward Together.” Welch integrated her love of American culture and history in her designs, leaving a unique mark on the lexicon of American fashion.

Gallery

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    Replica Betty Ford State Dinner Dress, 1975

    This is a replica of the Frankie Welch gown First Lady Betty Ford wore to two State Dinners at the White House. The pale green chiffon gown, in Mrs. Ford’s favorite shade of green, features an embroidered surface design in a chrysanthemum pattern and sequins sewn throughout. The symmetry of the high neck and the deep V neckline was a very fashionable silhouette for the time.

    Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum/NARA

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    Mrs. Ford in Original Welch Dress

    First Lady Betty Ford poses for a portrait photograph in the Treaty Room on December 24, 1975, wearing the original Frankie Welch gown. Mrs. Ford selected the gown for the Smithsonian’s First Ladies Collection.

    Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum/NARA

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    Lemon Yellow Chiffon Gown, 1974

    First Lady Betty Ford wore this lemon-yellow chiffon gown for a White House State Dinner with Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin of Israel in September 1974. This gown features a yellow, sheer chiffon layer with polka dots over a solid yellow spaghetti strapped dress. There are ruffles at the neckline, hem, and sleeves, and a satin bow around the waist. The gown closes with a zipper closure up the center back.

    Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum/NARA

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    Discover America scarf, 1968

    Welch’s Discover America scarf was created for the White House’s first and only fashion show, hosted by Lady Bird Johnson in 1968. Titled, “How to Discover America in Style," the audience included governors’ wives and an exclusive list of fashion designers and journalists. The fashion show opened with a larger version of the Discover America scarf hung like flags on poles held by models. It also appeared on the outside of an umbrella and the underside brim of a hat. Welch always found ways to be innovative with her handmade patriotic designs, telling a journalist, “You can actually see the outline of the United States, but it’s free form.” These scarves were hand-painted by Welch and a host of volunteers and the all the governors' wives in attendance received a hand-painted scarf as a gift.

    Hargrett Rare Book and Manuscript Library, UGA Special Collections Library

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  • The White House Fashion Show

    Take a look at this footage from the first and only White House fashion show on February 29, 1968. This glamourous event celebrated American fashion and design, but also promoted tourism and industry. First Lady Lady Bird Johnson praised the governors' wives in attendance for their hospitality and introducing her to the wonders of their state. Bonus: See if you can spot Frankie Welch greeting Mrs. Johnson during the reception.

    Lyndon B. Johnson Presidential Library and Museum

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    Frankie Welch with Betty Ford

    First Lady Betty Ford and designer Frankie Welch pose for a picture while holding Welch’s scarf in the West Sitting Hall of the White House on February 15, 1975. Welch specially designed the scarf for Mrs. Ford to give out as gifts and to match her tastes. The scarf featured petunias, a favorite flower of Mrs. Ford, and colors that coordinated with her favorite turtleneck shirts. If you look closely, you see the first lady sporting the scarf as part of her ensemble.

    Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library and Museum/NARA

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