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Glamour and Innovation: Ethel Frankau

Ethel Frankau was director of the Bergdorf Goodman custom salon for nearly sixty years. Frankau, an American, was widely acknowledged as a formidable woman with a deep respect for French culture, which she embedded in her designs, especially Jacqueline Kennedy’s inaugural gown. This exhibit was curated by Maegan Jenkins, the inaugural Digital Exhibits Intern and MA/MS dual degree student in Costume Studies and Library and Information Sciences at New York University.

Ethel Frankau

(January 12, 1886 – June 26, 1971)

Ethel Frankau was director of the Bergdorf Goodman custom salon for nearly sixty years. Frankau, an American, was widely acknowledged as a formidable woman with a deep respect for French culture, which she embedded in her designs, especially Jacqueline Kennedy’s inaugural gown, which Frankau designed based on suggestions from Mrs. Kennedy herself. Under Frankau’s tutelage, Bergdorf Goodman flourished, serving an exclusive clientele of debutantes, aristocrats, and socialites. Designs were both imported from France – Frankau traveled to Paris on behalf on the salon – and designed in-house under Frankau’s direction. Late in her life, Frankau received the National Order of Merit from France in 1969 for her contribution to French fashion and culture.

Gallery

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    Jackie Kennedy’s Inaugural Gown, 1961

    Worn by Jacqueline Kennedy to the Inaugural Balls in 1961, this sleeveless, off-white gown features a silk sheer top covering a strapless bodice that is encrusted with “brilliants” and embroidered with silver thread. Mrs. Kennedy collaborated with Frankau in the creation of this gown by offering suggestions on the sketches. Mrs. Kennedy’s look was finished off with a matching cape that closed at the neck and elbow-length gloves. This ensemble was well-received in the press and helped solidify Mrs. Kennedy’s place as a fashion icon of the decade.

    National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Gift of Mrs. John F. Kennedy

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    President and Mrs. Kennedy Attend Inaugural Ball

    In this photograph by Abbie Rowe taken on January 20, 1961, newly-inaugurated President John F. Kennedy and First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy arrive at the National Guard Armory in Washington, D.C. for the Inaugural Ball. Mrs. Kennedy completed her Ethel Frankau look with a matching cape that closed at the neck and elbow-length gloves.

    John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum/NARA

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    Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon Sketch, Coat, 1930s

    This is a sketch from the Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon by the designer A. Kelly, depicting a fur collared coat in a 1930s silhouette. Though this design wasn’t made by Frankau herself, she likely instructed illustrators or offered suggestions on their sketches. After sketches were finalized, garments were usually draped or sewn onto a mannequin that was similar to the customer’s figure.

    Bergdorf Goodman sketches, 1929-1952/Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art

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    Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon Sketch, Hat, 1939

    In addition to garments, the Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon also created custom accessories! This illustration from 1939 suggests a straw hat with a flower perched at the crown and a lace veil that covers the front of the face. Lace and flower embellishments were a popular hat trend for during this decade.

    Bergdorf Goodman sketches, 1929-1952/Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art

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    Vogue Editorial Photo, 1941

    This Vogue editorial from 1941 features a draped yellow dress from the Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon.

    Horst P Horst/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

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    Ethel Frankau

    Ethel Frankau, designer and director of the Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon, worked at the famous salon from 1914 until shortly before her death in 1971.

    Roger Schall/Condé Nast/Shutterstock

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